The Value of Critics

The recent debacle surrounding S. Irene Virbila has compelled me to stand up for the value of the critic in society and my belief that we are better, artists, athletes, and chefs, because of them. I have been cooking professionally since I graduated from the Restaurant School in Philadelphia when I was 18, some 34 years ago. I am one of the lucky people who loves their work every day they get to do it! A few of the things that I love best: the ability to give pleasure and nourishment to other people, mostly complete strangers; the community of the kitchen which requires a team effort, where at its most demanding moments, everyone matters, and everyone’s effort is equally important; and the competitive drive to make that elusive “perfect” meal.

Growing up I was a gymnast and the feeling of giving a perfect performance, or scoring a 10, was like no other feeling I have ever had. The desire to achieve was powerful. There was a constant dialogue within the gymnastic community about the objectivity of the judges and the legitimacy of their scores. Mostly though, we thought the judges were unfair and downright wrong in their critiques. The desire to score well with these judges nonetheless consumed our efforts, thoughts, and even dreams. It compelled me to study other athletes who scored better than I did, chang my routines, perfect my craft, and elevate my game. I wanted to be considered the best by the people I felt were biased, and in the process, I became better. I developed the ability to see myself and my craft from another vantage. I credit the judges with this achievement. Much like that endeavor, in my cooking career (which I truly view as a sport) I have also been judged. I have learned, practiced, and waited for the opportunity to have a food critic judge my craft. Often times I felt I was unfairly critiqued, like when Ruth Reichl ate my dessert and deemed it insipid. Sometimes I was reviewed very positively and through the process I became so much better. I credit the critic for making me good as much as myself.

I may be “old school,” but being respectful to the foundation on which you have the liberty to create should not be an outdated ethic. S. Irene Virbila has earned that respect and I, for one, feel it has to be said. It’s not about agreeing with her opinions; it’s about her voice having garnered a coveted audience for a very long time. An audience and focus that is integral to us all. It’s 2011 and my wish is that we resolve to be more respectful, communal, and humble. There is no value in being rude, no matter who is judging. It is critical that we all stand together in demanding respect for one another, and when we do, our industry will be better for it.

Amy Pressman
Test Kitchen Alum
Chef/Owner Short Order